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pilot940 · Joined: 07 Feb 2009 Posts: 326 Location: Grand Rapids, MI

Just got the block back yesteday.. woo hoo!

Got main cap straps and studs this time. Had it line honed and decked to square it up. Bored and honed. 40 over.

Just got done grinding the rods on the sides now I have to get it dynamically balanced.

Going with some KBs dished 15cc.

Went with the threaded OPP oils restrictors.
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FLOATER · Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 5:11 pm Post subject:

Lookin' pretty nice Cool

Did you grind side notches in the rods, or have them side clearanced a bit more?

Remember to go with the larger 'marine' specified clearances on those KB's,
and it seems to me I remember something about the ring gaps having to be wider... because of the ring stack being closer to the top of the piston
... check it out Wink

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=32

Did you 0-deck the block to those pistons?
The KB277 is a D-cup design and has a quench pad... a design to help reduce possible detonation and supposedly improve flame travel

Sorry to sound like a mother hen, but you do NOT want detonation or scuffing with those pistons... do everything to fit and build it right

I have 2-seasons on mine now... so far good... I use no more than 34* total advance... I got that from the KB site also

Mine...

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455-Sidewinder Low-Pro
I've spent most of my money on hotrod's, boats, and beer... the rest I wasted

pilot940 · Joined: 07 Feb 2009 Posts: 326 Location: Grand Rapids, MI

ground the sides of the rods for oil shedding and to clean up the casting and prevent stress cracks. Actually I used a flap wheel.

Not sure if I should grind around the small end or not, Anyone on here take it that far?

I didnt zero deck my block, they took off 11 thou, just enough to square it up.

Went with 3.5 clearance on the pistons as per the kb spec sheet. for marine it was 3.5-5 thou. For the top ring i ground them to a 34 thou gap using the gap factor of .008.. thanks for the heads up, I do not want to pull this thing apart again any time soon.
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pilot940 · Joined: 07 Feb 2009 Posts: 326 Location: Grand Rapids, MI

Heads zinc filled and ported

I had to get new valves, because the old ones were mushroom, so I went with the bigger valves. Now I need to take them in to the shop and have them milled, valve job done, and new bronze guide liners.
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FLOATER · Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:55 pm Post subject:

According to the chart on the link I posted above... marine requires .080" on the top ring with Hyper's... .034" is too tight for marine, unless you know something I didn't see?

Nice job on those rods and heads Cool

I wish mine looked like that
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455-Sidewinder Low-Pro
I've spent most of my money on hotrod's, boats, and beer... the rest I wasted

FastJet455 · Guest

Which type of paint did you use to paint the lifter valley?

Aren’t you concerned with the paint coming off?

Eric.M

pilot940 · Joined: 07 Feb 2009 Posts: 326 Location: Grand Rapids, MI

Its a electric motor winding flexible high temp epoxy. It allows the oil to flow better back to the pan. Its an old motor head trick my neighbor told me about. The most popular manufacturer of it is Glyptal, but there are others. The paint last years in motors from what I have heard, so I gave it a try.

I also smoothed out the portion of the valley that the oil travels back from the heads as well as the holes in the center of the valley before painting.
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ADAM · Joined: 01 Jan 2007 Posts: 274 Location: LAKE LANSING MI.

looks good....

shouldn't we all be doing this, I am going to be around 500 to 550hp and timminator says they can handle about that much. I'm about to start grindin.

pilot940 · Joined: 07 Feb 2009 Posts: 326 Location: Grand Rapids, MI

Thanks, All I actually used was a 120 grit flap wheel on my 4" grinder.
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squeeek · Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:56 am Post subject:

now them rods need to be reballanced. not only do they have to all weigh damn near the same, the big ends must be damn near close weigh wise and the small ends need to weigh the same. i watched a guy do a set of big mopar rods, took him a few weeks to do. Oh ya, now you also need to have them peaned (bead blasted). [/b]

76rogers · Joined: 09 Mar 2005 Posts: 530 Location: Flint, MI

pilot940 · Joined: 07 Feb 2009 Posts: 326 Location: Grand Rapids, MI

Another motor pic. Okay, I got a little carried away and polished the freeze plugs. Not much to do when I am waiting for my crank, rods and pistons to get balanced. I often find myself standing in the garage staring at my motor. Must be olds motor syndrome??

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FLOATER · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 2:38 am Post subject:

Why don't you just chrome plate the thing and be done with it? Razz

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455-Sidewinder Low-Pro
I've spent most of my money on hotrod's, boats, and beer... the rest I wasted

pilot940 · Joined: 07 Feb 2009 Posts: 326 Location: Grand Rapids, MI

now that would be a sight
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alaskan icicle · Joined: 08 Jul 2007 Posts: 296 Location: ALASKA

I agree with squeeek. I had mine resized, side ground shot peened and rebalanced small ends to each other. Then weight differences between rods was removed from the big ends as that would be where the difference would be.... and yes it took some time to get them within a gram.
With extra side clearance for proper oiling the side notch was not needed.
If you don't peen them and you used 120 grit you may want to polish them up to relieve the stress riser effects from the scratches or go over those places with a very fine sand paper.
Peening is the best and you can polish them slightly after peening if your 'really serious' about them shedding oil.
Looking good BTW.

P.S. Just checking but did you gap the top ring to .0080"? Floater is correct .0034" is not enough and you'll pop the tops off those hypers. They call for at least .0040 for forged!! Please recheck them.
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'69 HORIZON W/BERKELEY JET
455 BORED .030 OVER. KB HYPER 10:1 PISTONS. SHOT PEENED, POLISHED, SIDE GROUND & RESIZED RODS. RESTRICTED OILING SYSTEM, WITH 10 QUART PAN. EDELBROCK CERAMIC COATED PERFORMER INTAKE, PERFORMER 750 & RPM HEADS, 292H.